PAÍSES BAJOS vida a mano y paciencia artesanal. Los visitantes prefieren la especialidad Young Matured, “de textura suave, perfil umami y una explosión frutal que se derrite en el paladar”, afirman sus productores. Para llevar, el Jong Belegen, ideal para quienes se inician en el mundo del queso como para los más exigentes. La otra cita quesera de Holanda se produce cada vier- nes, de marzo a septiembre, en Alkmaar, una bella ciudad repleta de canales que se transforma en la capital quesera de los Países Bajos. En la plaza Waagplein, porteadores uniformados desfilan con precisión frente a una multitud expectante. Entre los redondos protagonistas destaca la especialidad Lutjewinkel 1916: llevan más de un siglo pro- duciendo ruedas de queso de hasta 16 kilos en enormes cubas que parecen salidas de un cuento. “Hacemos quesos con alma, certificados y regionales. Trabajamos para que cada bocado regale un momento de felicidad”, cuenta el productor. Su joya láctea es el Spicy & Creamy, “una autén- tica sinfonía de sabor”, explican. Durante el mercado, los visitantes compran un pack con las tres variedades más emblemáticas de Lutjewinkel1916, el souvenir perfecto. ENG There’s a good reason why the Dutch are humor- ously referred to as kaaskoppen (cheese heads). In this country, Gouda and Edam are just the tip of the iceberg: there are young and aged cheeses, raw milk cheeses such as the artisanal Stolwijk, and even versions with cloves, cumin, pesto, nettles... and even lavender! To discover them all, you have to visit the traditional markets in Edam, Gouda, or Alkmaar. Gouda, a national icon Every Thursday from April to August, the main square of the beautiful city of Gouda, about 70 kilometres from Amsterdam, is filled with history... and cheese. In front of the Gothic town hall, the kaasdragers parade in their immaculate white suits and horse-drawn carts. These cheese carriers make their way to De Goudse Waag, the Weighing House, where ancient scales still decide the fate of each piece. A few steps away, on Lange Tiendeweg, is ‘t Kaaswinkeltje, Gouda’s oldest cheese shop, which opened in 1880. With more than 200 varieties, this is a paradise for cheese lovers. “A good Gouda should be aromatic, with notes of caramel, an elastic texture, and a hint of walnut,” says owner Ad van Vliet. The best seller is the black Gouda, aged 24 months, but his favourite is the farmhouse variety, aged nine months, and “the tastiest.” Edam and Alkmaar, spherical perfection Every Wednesday in summer, the square in the town of Edam, north of Amsterdam, transforms into a living post- card: wheels of cheese covered in red wax—some 27 mil- lion are produced each year in the Netherlands—arrive on barges and are traded in the old-fashioned way, with the classic handjeklap, a handshake that seals the deal. At the heart of this tradition is Beemster cheese, born in the fertile fields of the Beemster Polder, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its secret: happy cows, hand-stirred curds, and artisanal patience. Visitors prefer the Young Matured specialty, “with its smooth texture, umami profile, and a fruity explosion that melts in the mouth,” according to its producers. Jong Belegen is the ideal take-away for those new to the world of cheese as well as for the most demanding of palates. The other great cheese event in Holland takes place every. Friday from March to September in Alkmaar, a beautiful city filled with canals that is transformed into the cheese capital of the Netherlands. In Waagplein square, uniformed porters parade with precision in front of an expectant crowd. Amongst the spherical stars of the show, the Lutjewinkel 1916 speciality stands out: they have been producing cheese wheels weighing up to 16 kilos in huge vats that look like something out of a fairy tale for over a century. “We make cheeses that are certified, regional, and have soul. We strive to ensure that every bite brings a moment of happiness,“ says the producer. Their dairy gem is Spicy & Creamy, ”a true symphony of flavour,” they explain. At the market, visitors can buy a pack con- taining the three most iconic varieties of Lutjewinkel 1916, the perfect souvenir. el hotel donde todo pasa The hotel where everything happens © Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg 18+ / Alamy Stock Photo Ad van Vliet, propietario de ’t Kaaswinkeltje, la quesería más antigua de Gouda, abierta en 1880. // Ad van Vliet, owner of ‘t Kaaswinkeltje, the oldest cheese shop in Gouda, opened in 1880. Jennifer Haz, del Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. // Jennifer Haz, from the Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau.