da tienda Pareo Connection (Pursana, 13). Es uno de los pocos locales de diseñadores y artesanos del barrio. Como Enzo Capello (Arte San Mallorca, Fábrica 31) que, tras viajar por el mundo, fabrica aquí sandalias al estilo de Capri. Tiendas de toda la vida aún quedan. Peluquerías, una cuchillería, una mercería de 1924 o una ferretería especializa- da en material náutico. Pero el epicentro sigue siendo el Mer- cado de Santa Catalina, donde conviven el caviar y las ostras de Arume con el variat (callos, frit, calamares, ensaladilla…) de Joan Frau. Koldo Royo, cliente habitual, ha traído a Adriá, Arguiñano y Chicote a este puesto activo desde 1966. Cerca está el Isleño (Navegación, 19), empezó a servir en 1963 los llonguets, bocadillos con tomate que sólo usan el pan de Ca Sa Camena, el forn abierto desde 1845 en la misma calle. Pedro Frau, el hijo de Joan, aún recuerda cuando jugaba entre los puestos del mercado y sabe que, mientras resistan, el barrio no habrá cambiado tanto. ENG It has always both functioned as a village and believed itself to be one. Santa Catalina is the neighbourhood outside the city walls, which began in the 10th century, and is where Palma de Mallorca comes to an end. A hundred years ago, the upper half was home to shoe, brick, and pottery factories, modest buildings with pretentious modernist flourishes. The part closest to the sea, Jonquet, belongs to the fishermen: lit- tle houses, dilapidated windmills, and a labyrinthine medie- val layout. The neighbourhood was going downhill until the 1990s, when the Swedes discovered it. Now, Hollywood actors such as Joseph Fiennes and Mads Mikkelsen (who has a house here) enjoy brunch in its cute bars, while Santa Catalina tries to work out its identity amongst century-old shops and futur- istic cocktail bars. A COOL PLACE to eat Santa Catalina, with its lively social and cultural life, has always been the exception behind the walls. This is where you can find the Es Baluard contemporary art museum (Plaza de la Puerta de Santa Catalina, 10). Its director, David Barro, busy with the upcoming Miró exhibition, says that “one of our aims is to be an engaging museum, connected with its surround- ings and the way people live in a neighbourhood.” Opposite Es Baluard, Hostal Cuba (Sant Magi, 1) is some- thing of an emblem, the most impressive modernist building. Its Sky Bar is the place to go to understand what the neigh- bourhood has become: the coolest place to be. A few steps away are the HM Balanguera (Balanguera, 37), with an Ibiza feel, and HM Palma Blanc (Ramón y Cajal, 12), decorated with works by artists such as Abramovic and Vasconcelos. In its restaurant, Aromata, Andreu Genestra is aiming for his sec- ond Michelin star. “We serve Mediterranean cuisine with a maritime essence and lots of local produce,” explains head chef Edgar Rodríguez. Behind him, a huge bisbé de sobrasada (a type of sausage) proves him right. After all, gastronomic delights are the neighbourhood’s main attraction. Daniel Arias, president of the Balearic Som- meliers Association, says that “in 10 streets, you’ll find bars, trendy restaurants, street food, underground places, and more all coexisting.” From the short menu at Osma (Pursiana, 18), by Javier Calleja, with its French wines and spirit, to the Italian Rikito (Fábrica, 25) and its splendid tableware. Or from Spot (Plaza de la Verge del Miracle, 3), with its interior court- yard and orange trees, to the militant Mallorquinism of Bistro Esencia (Sant Magí, 68). But the first haute cuisine restaurant was El Vandal (Progreso, 15), a true classic, not to mention festive and loud, just like Bernabé Caravotta’s cuisine: eviche cones, cotton candy nests, and cocktails... brunch in the sun Pubs and cocktail bars cluster at the start of Calle Magí, around the LAB (Sant Magí, 22), which is lively even in winter, and the Havanna (Sant Magí, 4). Daniel recommends Agabar (Fábrica, 14), with its unusual concept of agave cocktails in a 19th-century industrial warehouse. Partners Gabriela Mijas and Christian Balta maintain that “the neighbourhood is very lively, not in a wild, party-hard way, but more about relaxing and enjoying yourself.” They are big fans of brunch on Annibal Street, the new trend pioneered by El Perrito (Annibal, 20), with its blue fox terrier at the door. That laid-back brunch vibe is very Santa Catalina. “It’s a village-town neighbourhood, close to the port, which gives it that holiday feel,” confirms Thomas Machi, who has been here for seven years. With his partner Brigitte Calas, they went from selling their designs on Es Trenc beach to launching the colourful Pareo Connection store (Pursana, 13), one of the few shops in the neighbourhood run by designers and artisans. Such as Enzo Capello (Arte San Mallorca, Fábri- ca 31), who, after travelling the world, now makes Capri-style sandals here. Long-standing shops still remain. Hairdressers, a cutlery shop, a haberdashery dating back to 1924, and a store special- ising in nautical equipment. But the epicentre is still the Santa Catalina Market, where Arume’s caviar and oysters sit along- side Joan Frau’s variat (tripe, fried calamari, salad...). Koldo Royo, a regular customer, has brought Adriá, Arguiñano, and Chicote to the stall, which has been open since 1966. Nearby is El Isleño (Navegación, 19), which began serving llonguets, tomato sandwiches made exclusively with bread from Ca Sa Camena, a bakery that has been open since 1845 on the same street. Pedro Frau, Joan’s son, still remembers playing among the market stalls and knows that as long as they’re still there, the neighbourhood can’t have changed that much. El barrio de Santa Catalina mirando al mar. // The Santa Catalina neighbourhood looking out to sea.