ENG Sheltered by the Atlantic and the Mediterra- nean, in transitional waters such as the Alboran Sea – where two currents attract mainly sardines and ancho- vies – and the Gulf of Cadiz – rich in nutrients that help explain the quality of cuttlefish, white prawns and tuna – Andalusian fish markets showcase an incredible rep- ertoire. It was next to one of these markets with ‘exqui- site produce’, that Jaime Tejedor decided to open his res- taurant – El Alimentario (Av. Infanta Elena, 1, Torre del Mar, Málaga). Located near Caleta de Vélez (Málaga), it has, he says, ‘become a national gastronomic destina- tion in its own right’, bearing in mind that fried fish and espetos (skewered sardines) are essential staples here. But there’s more to this stretch of Malaga’s coast- line. La Axarquía gave rise to a native breed of goat, and one of its key towns, Canillas de Aceituno, turned a recipe for roast suckling goat into a true ‘liturgical’ tradition at Christmas time. Additionally, in the ear- ly 1980s, the fertile plains of this region and those of Granada’s Costa Tropical were the place where sub- tropical fruits such as avocados and mangoes man- aged to adapt to the DNA of the land here. The rea- son? The light and sun (which only rests for two months a year), are crucial for their ripening. Alongside the stories told by the sea – especial- ly those told by bluefin tuna – José Miguel Valdivieso, chef at ‘a house with a Granada feel’ – Uskar (Alon- so del Barco, 11, Madrid) – incorporates other narra- tives into his cuisine, such as vegetables, wine and ingredients nurtured in the shelter of the mountains. Indeed, the lamb from the Segura and Sagra moun- tains is a cornerstone of his cuisine, not only because he acknowledges that the local community ‘values it highly’ – he was born in Húescar (Granada) – but also because ‘its meat is pink with a little fat mar- bling, giving it flavour without being overpowering”. © Alamy Stock Photo © Restaurante El Alimentario